3d printing a castable item with Phrozen Castable Greeen wax like resin and getting good results can be a tricky thing.  I have been playing with the settings for a while, and I’ve been able to get my Elegoo Mars resin printer, to print the Phrozen castable resin with out an issue.  

The amount of time I put into testing was incredible, and I want to tell you, since I’ve been using these settings, my prints, castings and final products have been coming out really good.

In this article, I’m going to limit my discussion on the settings for the Elegoo Mars 3d printer, and review the Phrozen resin and how I find it to work for me.


Phrozen Resin, and What I like!

Of course, I don’t have to tell you how much I like my Elegoo Mars.  I think it is the best value of any 3d resin printer on the market today.  I’m not referring to the pro version, but the original, which is still available and should be added to your list.

I’ve been working with about seven different kinds of castable resins.  The first I tried was the anycubic green castable resin, read my review here.  The second castable resin I’ve used was the funtodo Red castable, and you can find my review of that, here.

I purchased Prozen’s castable Green resin, because it is designed for jewelry printing and I thought I would be able to get better results.  I’m always looking for the best results I can get, because when it comes to making custom jewelry, my customer’s expect only the best.  Phrozen printers do come highly recommended, but I had never purchased any of their resins until now.

My first prints where absolutely horrid.  I followed the instructions on the bottle, but, because I was aware that the Phrozen printers are more powerful, I still upped the print time per layer.  It didn’t work.  I ended up with a lot of blobby messes in the Vat.  I wasn’t able to get a good answer on settings for my Elegoo, so, I started to play.

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Once I dialed in my settings, I started to play with all my prints, new and hold, and testing out this resin.  I found it to be quite nice to work with.  Phrozen’s casable resin does not smell bad, and after shaking the bottle up, you will want to let it sit for about five minutes to allow the bubbles to settle out of the resin.

This resin does have a bit of a downside, let me explain.

This resin is messy.  Yes, all 3d printer resins are messy, but this resin is really messy.  I find it a bit more work to clean it up.  Getting excess resin out of the vat takes a bit more work, and if you are like me, I go through a lot of cleaning solutions to get the vat clean up of all the Phrozen wax resin.  

I’ve also discovered that this resin is a bit more brutal on the FEP film.  Because the lamp has to stay on more, the fep film gets warmer, and the waxy resin seems to contribute to the early deterioration of the Fep film.  Keep this in mind, because you will need to check your film more often if you use and like this resin like I do.

the settings please!

I’m not going to hold out any more.  Those of you who wish to use this resin, will want to know the settings that are working perfectly for me and my Elegoo mars.  Keep in mind, you’re printer may vary, so test these first before printing your final piece.

The recommended settings on the bottle, are specific to the Phrozel Shuffle printer only, so don’t waste any time using those settings as the shuffle has a lamp that is about 70% more powerful then the Elegoo mars.

The settings I’m using above, have proven to work for me and this resin, 95% of the time.  Every once in a while, a print will fail, and I image that it is more due to me, the way I align my model on the print bend, and the support type I use.

Proper cleaning

After your print is done, take a little time, and remove it slowly from the print bend.  This is where you will have to take a big of care with your printed model.

Wax like resins do not hold up to exposure to IPA.  As 3d printers, we all dunk our models in IPA to remove the resin and to clean up our prints.  Here, however with the Phrozen castable resin, you will have to refrain yourself from IPA as best you can.

Here is how I do it.  

I remove the model from the print bend, and dip it into my container of IPA for 5 seconds only.  I swish it around, then remove it, and place it in water.  There, I leave it while I clean up my printer.

From the water solution, I take the model and place it into an ultrasonic cleaner with warm water, and a good cleaning solution, such as MeanGreen or Fantastic, either diluted with water.  I leave the ultrasonic cleaner running for about 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the number of items and the size of the items I working with.

From there, I remove the models from the cleaner, and air dry only.  Try not to use brushes, or towels with this resin, as the models will scratch very easily.  Once air dried, I then remove the supports, leaving just a but extruding from my models.  The models are then placed in a UV curing station.  I use a uv nail curing station, or you can buy or make your own.  The prints should remain in the UV Cure station for at least 15 to 25 minutes.  

Wax resin takes a while to cure, and I’ve left some rings in my cure station for up to 45 minutes.

Prep for casting...

If you are a jeweler who works with wax carvings, then you are going to love this.  Once of the best part of using this casting resin is that, once cured, it acts just like standard jewelers casting wax.

The burnout is the same, and one thing I’ve found, the longer this sets up, and the more air removed from the casting material in your vacuum, the better it will burn out of the investment, and the better your final product will look.

Precautions you should take

First, the final printed model, before its been cured, is VERY delicate.  It will break, bend, or crack with the slightest of pressure.  You need to take care when handling the model before you cure it.

After curing, the model will be slightly more durable, but still, it can break easily.  Wax like resins stay soft, even after curing.  If you have to ship the printed model somewhere, then pack it carefully, and make sure it is cured, so the surface will not scratch during shipping. 


What do I think now?

If you, like me, are trying to keep your custom 3d print setup for jewelry making inexpensive, then this resin will work.  You can get the Phrozen castable resin for under $80.00 and it works, and works well.

I recommend this, and no I’m not getting paid to say this, Phrozen is not a sponsor.  Every item I review, I’ve paid for on my own, and if this didn’t work, I would be telling you to stay away. 

It works great, and for the price, it is one of the best castable resins I’ve used yet.


I hope this helps you, and good luck with all your great model designs.  

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